Abstract Book Sponsored by:
Session 6 hosted by L’Oreal Research & Innovation
12 Sep 2024 - DAY 2
Chairpersons: Jacques Strydom, Evonik, South Africa
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
13h00-13h30 Next Generation Green Technology for Deodorant Effectiveness
Aeysha Jakoet, Symrise, South Africa
13h30-14h00 Transparent Oil Thickening – A New Solution to Naturally Modify the Rheology of Cold-Processed Oil-Gels
Julia Mencke, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
14h00-15h00 Debate & Panel
Robyn Brown, Botanichem representing JAKA, South Africa
Juanita Kilian, Dr K, South Africa
Nadia Rashid, CTFA, South Africa
Julia Tew, The Circular Stage, South Africa
15h00-15h05 Closing Address
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
Vice President Coschem 2024
15h05 Marketing slot L’Oréal Research & Innovation
Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
13h00-13h30 Next Generation Green Technology for Deodorant Effectiveness
Aeysha Jakoet, Symrise, South Africa
13h30-14h00 Transparent Oil Thickening – A New Solution to Naturally Modify the Rheology of Cold-Processed Oil-Gels
Julia Mencke, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
14h00-15h00 Debate & Panel
Robyn Brown, Botanichem representing JAKA, South Africa
Juanita Kilian, Dr K, South Africa
Nadia Rashid, CTFA, South Africa
Julia Tew, The Circular Stage, South Africa
15h00-15h05 Closing Address
Marcel van Rooyen, Symrise, South Africa
Vice President Coschem 2024
15h05 Marketing slot L’Oréal Research & Innovation
Next Generation Green Technology for
Deodorant Effectiveness
Aeysha Jakoet
Symrise, South Africa
|
Aeysha has been an influential member of the personal care industry for the past 10 years. She holds an MSc in Pharmaceutical Science and a Diploma in Cosmetic Chemistry from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) of South Africa. Aeysha also served on the Coschem Council, where she was the Chairperson of the Public Relations (PR) committee from 2020 to 2022.
She began her career by evaluating the efficacy of drug delivery systems, but her passion for innovation led her to transition into the personal care sector. She gained extensive experience as an R&D chemist at various cosmetic manufacturers, focusing on the development and manufacturing of hair, skin, sun, and body products. Later she served as a Lead Applications Scientist, where she honed her skills in formulation development, consumer-perceivable studies, and instrumental testing of specialty ingredients. Her expertise in these areas paved the way for her subsequent role as a Key Accounts Manager at a chemical distribution company, where she provided valuable insights into product specifications and technical requirements, ensuring a seamless alignment between client expectations and the organisation's capabilities. Currently, Aeysha serves as a Key Account Manager at Symrise in the Cosmetic Ingredients division. Her extensive background and commitment to innovation continue to drive her contributions to the personal care industry. |
|
ABSTRACT
Consumers have high expectations on modern deodorants. Long lasting performance will always be first but there are several other requirements case by case, like aluminum-free, alcohol-free, caring formulations, microbiome friendliness, and increasingly also the use of ingredients with a high degree of naturality. We will present our three-dimensional in-house ex vivo human sweat model, combining the results from sensory assessment, chemical analyses of malodourous volatiles formed, and 16S rRNA gene sequencing (microbiome analysis). Developed by this model Symrise is launching our next generation green technology with outstanding deodorant effectiveness this year. The presentation would reveal insights on methodology and the latest new development.
Consumers have high expectations on modern deodorants. Long lasting performance will always be first but there are several other requirements case by case, like aluminum-free, alcohol-free, caring formulations, microbiome friendliness, and increasingly also the use of ingredients with a high degree of naturality. We will present our three-dimensional in-house ex vivo human sweat model, combining the results from sensory assessment, chemical analyses of malodourous volatiles formed, and 16S rRNA gene sequencing (microbiome analysis). Developed by this model Symrise is launching our next generation green technology with outstanding deodorant effectiveness this year. The presentation would reveal insights on methodology and the latest new development.
Transparent Oil Thickening – A New Solution
to Naturally Modify the Rheology of
Cold-Processed Oil-Gels
Julia Mencke
Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
|
Julia began her dual studies in Business Administration at Berg+Schmidt in 2020. By the time she successfully completed her studies in 2023, she was able to get to know all areas of the company and gained comprehensive knowledge in this time.
After completing her time in the department of cosmetic specialties at Berg+Schmidt Care Ingredients, the decision to continue working there after graduation was very easy. In 2023, after graduating from the Hamburg School of Business Administration with a Bachelor of Science degree, Julia started as Sales Manager at Berg+Schmidt Care Ingredients. In her position, she is responsible for their customers of the cosmetic specialties portfolio in Northern and South-Eastern Europe as well as South Africa. ABSTRACT An innovative and efficient solution to naturally thicken transparent oil formulations for leave-on and rinse-off products. Due to its natural thixotropic behavior, the oil thickener is explicitly suitable for transforming textures from fluid to solid gels and back. |
|
Short time to market formulations are increasingly in demand. Formulators need fast and simple solutions i.e. easy to add-in ingredients which do not require too long process time.
If we consider not only the formulator side but also the consumer side, viscosity and flow behavior play an important role, especially with transparent oil gels for the well-being of the consumer while applying the product. There are existing ingredients like polymers or organoclays which still leave some space for improvement.
Natural blend for oil thickening in cold process
Besides the commonly known options, formulators have further choices of blended products containing natural polymers based on castor oil. The combination of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid has shown to be very suitable for use in cosmetic formulations i.e. from anhydrous oil gels to cleansing milks and lip products. It is a blend made of natural emollients, a texturizer and stability enhancer with film forming and viscosity enhancing properties. This blend (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) comes as a transparent pale yellowish gel which is, in contrast to other ingredients, cold-processible in pure oil and requires adequate shearing force. It is up to the formulator to decide which tool is used to generate this force, the product is highly compatible with numerous stirring devices. The device used has no influence on the final texture or viscosity. When tested in pure sunflower oil, the thickening blend has shown to build up its final viscosity after 24 h at RT leading to a jelly-like appearance. The final viscosity depends on the use concentration and oil used. Thanks to its natural thixotropic behavior it liquefies again once shaken or stirred. This rheological appearance makes it ideal for spray or pump packaging and opens up a broad range of formulating options: The visual appearance of the end product can be adjusted from a transparent oil gel to a dense but light cream or from a liquid oil to a solidified gel. En vogue concepts like luxurious gel-to-oil textures in anhydrous, nourishing body care applications promise smooth and silky skin both during and after application. Unlike other oil products, thickened oil gels can be applied where they are needed without evaporating or becoming runny. Compatibility with different plant-based emollients also helps ensure a well-received sensory experience that supports luxury skin care.
Compatibility with different oil types
Vegetable oils and natural esters are extremely suitable for pure oil thickening. Furthermore, not only the viscosity, but also the texture changes which may lead to a completely different perception of the oil once applied to the skin. Jojoba oil for example shows a significant increase in viscosity turning into a pleasant gel. Other vegetable oils like olive or sesame become more jelly-like. In contrast to that, mixed and modified castor oil shows a honey-like texture. The natural oil thickening blend is not only compatible with various oil types, but also allows for different textures and concepts as further shown below.
Formulating commonly used ingredients
Especially for physical UV filters the products aesthetics play an important role. Facial fluids or other usually liquid sunscreen formulations based on fast spreading emollients risk to be too runny. A simple sunflower oil base thickening with the blend has shown to become a stable oil gel when loaded with Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide. Hence, one solution for a better on-point application of important sun care products. Other solid particle like pigments can be incorporated into a cold-processed oil gel making the thickener a good choice for color cosmetics. Water or hydrophilic active ingredients can be incorporated by up to 5% leading to some turbidity due to the refraction. However, slightly decreasing the amount of oil may bring cost advantages.
Conclusion
There are several options and raw materials for thickening oils on the market. What makes the oil thickener consisting of a blend mixture of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid so special and unique: it is a natural product that is easy to incorporate, creates transparent formulations and can be incorporated in a cold process.
It meets the market needs as an easy to add-in ingredient which do not require too long process time. The transparent oil-gel texture allows the creation of new trendy products. A new chance for formulators worldwide.
If we consider not only the formulator side but also the consumer side, viscosity and flow behavior play an important role, especially with transparent oil gels for the well-being of the consumer while applying the product. There are existing ingredients like polymers or organoclays which still leave some space for improvement.
Natural blend for oil thickening in cold process
Besides the commonly known options, formulators have further choices of blended products containing natural polymers based on castor oil. The combination of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid has shown to be very suitable for use in cosmetic formulations i.e. from anhydrous oil gels to cleansing milks and lip products. It is a blend made of natural emollients, a texturizer and stability enhancer with film forming and viscosity enhancing properties. This blend (INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic acid Copolymer, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) comes as a transparent pale yellowish gel which is, in contrast to other ingredients, cold-processible in pure oil and requires adequate shearing force. It is up to the formulator to decide which tool is used to generate this force, the product is highly compatible with numerous stirring devices. The device used has no influence on the final texture or viscosity. When tested in pure sunflower oil, the thickening blend has shown to build up its final viscosity after 24 h at RT leading to a jelly-like appearance. The final viscosity depends on the use concentration and oil used. Thanks to its natural thixotropic behavior it liquefies again once shaken or stirred. This rheological appearance makes it ideal for spray or pump packaging and opens up a broad range of formulating options: The visual appearance of the end product can be adjusted from a transparent oil gel to a dense but light cream or from a liquid oil to a solidified gel. En vogue concepts like luxurious gel-to-oil textures in anhydrous, nourishing body care applications promise smooth and silky skin both during and after application. Unlike other oil products, thickened oil gels can be applied where they are needed without evaporating or becoming runny. Compatibility with different plant-based emollients also helps ensure a well-received sensory experience that supports luxury skin care.
Compatibility with different oil types
Vegetable oils and natural esters are extremely suitable for pure oil thickening. Furthermore, not only the viscosity, but also the texture changes which may lead to a completely different perception of the oil once applied to the skin. Jojoba oil for example shows a significant increase in viscosity turning into a pleasant gel. Other vegetable oils like olive or sesame become more jelly-like. In contrast to that, mixed and modified castor oil shows a honey-like texture. The natural oil thickening blend is not only compatible with various oil types, but also allows for different textures and concepts as further shown below.
Formulating commonly used ingredients
Especially for physical UV filters the products aesthetics play an important role. Facial fluids or other usually liquid sunscreen formulations based on fast spreading emollients risk to be too runny. A simple sunflower oil base thickening with the blend has shown to become a stable oil gel when loaded with Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide. Hence, one solution for a better on-point application of important sun care products. Other solid particle like pigments can be incorporated into a cold-processed oil gel making the thickener a good choice for color cosmetics. Water or hydrophilic active ingredients can be incorporated by up to 5% leading to some turbidity due to the refraction. However, slightly decreasing the amount of oil may bring cost advantages.
Conclusion
There are several options and raw materials for thickening oils on the market. What makes the oil thickener consisting of a blend mixture of olive squalane, hydrogenated ethylhexyl olivate and the copolymer of hydrogenated castor oil with sebacic acid so special and unique: it is a natural product that is easy to incorporate, creates transparent formulations and can be incorporated in a cold process.
It meets the market needs as an easy to add-in ingredient which do not require too long process time. The transparent oil-gel texture allows the creation of new trendy products. A new chance for formulators worldwide.
Debate & Panel
|
Robyn Brown
Botanichem, South Africa Robyn has a NHD in Microbiology and Dipl Cosmetic Science from the SA Society of Cosmetic Chemists. Robyn entered the Cosmetic Industry in 1992, working for various companies such as Permark International, Procter and Gamble, Croda, and Cognis in various positions from QC, QA, Production and Sales of Ingredients. In 2006, Robyn started consulting to the Cosmetic Industry and worked alongside various companies formulating and testing finished cosmetic products. Botanichem started in 2007, represents various multinational Ingredient Suppliers and is well known for expertise in the Cosmetic Actives Fields. Robyn is passionate about education to the Cosmetics Industry and her hobbies include reading, painting and walking. Today Robyn is representing Jaka, a multinational Innovative Active Company founded in 2010 in China. Jaka is a highly technological development company working on various platforms to produce highly effective actives based on Chinese medicine for use in the Cosmetic Industry. Jaka have published more than 35 papers and have more than 95 patent applications on their various award-winning ingredients. They are currently represented in over 75 countries worldwide. |
|
|
Juanita Kilian
Dr K, South Africa Juanita, is a qualified as a pharmacologist with a Master’s in Dermaceutical product development and Doctorate in Transdermal Delivery Technology from the University of London, School of Pharmacy. Juanita has engaged in the study of transdermal delivery systems and has made unique formulation discoveries, which had a profound influence on the development of the DrK cellREVERSE Dermal Health Care product range. Today, Juanita is the director, formulator, and founder of the DrK cellREVERSE Dermal Health Care product line with the extensive focus on the skin microbiome and the interaction between the skin, brain, and gut. |
|
Nadia Rashid
CTFA, South Africa Nadia has a BSc in Life and Earth Sciences with a triple major in Biochemistry, Chemistry and Microbiology. She also has the COSCHEM Diploma in Cosmetic Science winning the Norman Sanan award in 2010. She has been in the industry for about 15 years, beginning as a lab technician at a fragrance company then moving onto private label and contract manufacturing with senior roles in R&D, Quality, Production, Procurement and Regulatory. Nadia has worked for both local and international companies as well as been a private consultant having worked with many successful brands. With a long history of published articles, she currently hold the position of Technical and Regulatory Manager at CTFA where she is charged with technical aspects of cosmetic regulation locally, including the cosmetic compendium, artworks, training members on GMP and labelling and managing all CTFA committees. |
|
|
Julia Tew
The Circular Stage, South Africa Founder and CEO of The Circular Stage Consultancy, Julia is a seasoned communications specialist inspiring transformative engagement to create resilient, regenerative organisations. Her consulting toolkit includes powerful tools and methodologies such as systems thinking, storytelling and appreciative inquiry, and key areas of focus include inner development, social innovation, stakeholder engagement and workplace wellbeing. Julia’s skills and experience have been honed through her work in diverse sectors, ranging from food, agriculture, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals to non-profits, publishing and education. Apart from running her own consultancies, she has served on the executive of a market-leading multinational and helped shape communications for its sustainability and community development projects. She’s currently part of the global team bringing the 4 Day Week or reduced-hours working to 18 countries across the globe. A co-founder of the Southern African Network for the Inner Development Goals, Julia supports the African Chapter of the Climate Coaching Alliance, and takes to the podium from time to time as a key-note speaker. |
Closing Address
Marcel van Rooyen
Symrise, South Africa
Vice President Coschem 2024
|
As we come to the closing of a remarkable 2024 Coschem Scientific Conference, I would like to take a moment to express my gratitude to all of you for your participation and dedication throughout two enlightening days.
This conference is a platform for sharing knowledge, exploring innovations, and fostering collaborations in the field of cosmetics ingredients and manufacturing. I would like to extend a heartfelt appreciation to our esteemed speakers, whose expertise and passion inspire us. I also want to acknowledge the hard work and dedication of the Scientific Committee who have worked tirelessly to ensure the success of this conference. Furthermore, allow me to express my gratitude to our sponsors and exhibitors who have supported this event. Your contributions play an essential role in making this conference a resounding success. Thank you to all the delegates who have travelled from far and wide to be a part of this conference. As we bid farewell to the 2024 Coschem Scientific Conference, I encourage you to apply the knowledge gained, the connections made, and the inspiration received. Let us continue to collaborate, innovate, and strive for excellence in the field of cosmetic science. |
|
Abstract Book Sponsored by
