THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS SOUTH AFRICA
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Abstract Book Sponsored By

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Session 5
9 September

Chairpersons:              Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
                                       Charis Lewis, Investchem, South Africa 
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10h30-11h00              Himanthalia Elongata, the Marine Ingredient with the Power to Correct Dark Spots on all Skin Complexion Types
                                      Frederic Serres, Givaudan, France
                       
11h00-11h30              Flower-Powered Conditioning: A Sustainable New Cationic Surfactant
                                      Lucie Maisonneuve, Stepan Company, France
 
11h30–12h00            Interview with South African Brand Owner
                                     Theo Mothoa-Frendo, Uso  Skincare, South Africa
 
12h00-13h00              LUNCH  BREAK

 Himanthalia Elongata, the Marine Ingredient
with the Power to Correct Dark Spots
                      on all Skin Complexion Types
                           

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Frederic Serres​

Givaudan, France​
Frederic has a Master degree in Chemistry of Polymers & Biology of the French University of Lille, and has 20 years’ experience with several active ingredient manufacturers. He works for Givaudan Active Beauty for the past 7 years, and takes care now specifically of the African & Middle East Region. He works actively with our partners from The Careco for the African territories. 

Abstract

On a daily basis, environmental stress such as UV exposure and pollution as well as chronological ageing generate a loss of control in the pigmentation process, which ends up in the appearance of brown and dark spots on the surface of the skin. According to our recent global online consumer study, algae extract is perceived as one of the most effective ingredients to reduce hyper pigmented spots, a prevailing skin concern that impacts over 70% of consumers worldwide. But did you know that 1 out of 2 of South African consumers starts acting on their hyper pigmented spots with cosmetic treatments between 18 and 29 year old? This skin issue, mainly due to sun exposure, create a real interest for South Africans. According to our global online consumer study, 84% of them are enthusiastic to have a product that helps erase or reduce dark spots. Building on the consumers’ strong interest, Givaudan’s Marine Biotechnology and skin experts have designed an active ingredient with Himanthalia Elongata, a unique and sustainable macro-alga extract which re-establishes the communication between fibroblasts and melanocytes, thereby reverting pigmentation disorders.
 
Loss of communication... main cause for pigmentation disorder
 
Classified as one of the most important ageing concerns for consumers globally, dark spots, which are also called ageing spots and brown spots, are the consequence of a biological process getting out of control: skin pigmentation, which results in an overproduction of melanin, the pigment also responsible for the colour of our eyes, hair and skin.
 
Intrinsic ageing (resulting in senile lentigo), overexposure to UV (solar lentigo), inflammation process or wound healing (scars), amongst many others various causes can generate a loss of control on the pigmentation process. Up to now, the only way to fight against hyper pigmented spots was to use whitening agents or exfoliating compounds, which are often aggressive for the skin, or result in a general impact on the skin tone, as they are not specifically acting on the spots.
 
A new biological pathway has recently been identified[i], explaining how a loss of communication between senescent fibroblasts and melanocytes is one of the main causes for the pigmentation disorders. A key protein (SDF-1), synthetised by the fibroblasts, is indeed playing a crucial messenger role in our skin, but its production decreases drastically in senescent conditions. This was the key Givaudan Active Beauty scientists were looking for, to offer a new and exclusive ingredient, specifically targeting pigmentation spots, without impacting consumers’ natural skin tone. By re-establishing communication between fibroblasts and melanocytes (reactivating SDF-1 production in senescent skin conditions or under over-exposure to UV), and thanks to its antioxidant properties providing interesting additional benefits, Himanthalia Elongata enables to take back control on the skin pigmentation process, both in a preventive and curative way.
 
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The power of Marine Biotech
Himanthalia elongata, a brown macro-alga up to 2 meters long growing close to the Pink Granite Coast of Brittany, France, was identified in our Marine Biotechnology Centre. Concentrating extraordinary active compounds, it uses, during its growth, the power of sunlight and captures atmospheric CO2 to produce its key constituents. By doing so, algae participate in lowering the atmospheric carbon released by industrial activities, making it one of the most sustainable resources to develop new cosmetic ingredients. To preserve this sustainable aspect, the algae used as raw material are then harvested manually at low tide, by trained Goémoniers.
 
Himanthalia elongata produces many biomarkers of interest, such as polyphenols, and more specifically phlorotannins. These particular molecules have been identified during our screening for their ability to reactivate the expression of SDF-1, a key target in hyperpigmentation disorders. By enriching the alga extract in those molecules of interest, Active Beauty scientists crafted Himanthalia Elongata Extract, the universal dark spots fader.
 
How to target pigmented spots for all skin ethnicities?
To evaluate the consumers’ benefits of Himanthalia Elongata Extract against dark spots and pigmentation disorders, a clinical study was carried out on 43 female volunteers with African skin type, from 19 to 54 years old, selected for their hyperpigmentation spots on the face. Volunteers were divided into 2 groups, applying either a formula containing Himanthalia Elongata at 3% or a placebo (same formula without the active) on their full face, twice a day for 56 days. As African skin is very rich in melanin (potent UV protector), it usually shows less ageing spots due to UV exposure or senescence than other skin types. However, it is prone to hyperpigmentation disorders which can be related, for instance, to an over production of melanin during wound healing. Therefore, for this clinical test, volunteers were selected for their hyperpigmentation disorders on the faces, no matter their age (19 to 54 years old). The melanin content in the dark spots of the volunteers was then evaluated thanks to a Mexameter® at D0 and after 28 and 56 days of treatment. Himanthalia Elongata induces a significant reduction of the melanin content in the hyperpigmented spots of the volunteers, down to -91% and -327% versus placebo, respectively after 28 and 56 days.

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​To inspire the beauty industry and concretely show Himanthalia Elongata Extract’s efficacy, the active ingredient was formulated by our experts in an inspirational skin complexion boosting essence. This luxurious formula combines Himanthalia Elongata Extract together with a radiance booster obtained from Sea Fennel, and a moisturising water rich in sea minerals sourced from Brittany. Its “fat water” texture (a 2020 new skincare trend) gives the product a consistency between the essence and the serum, and its delicate smell makes this essence the perfect beauty product to smooth the skin, erase dark spots and even out complexion.
 
Images & legends
 
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Himanthalia Elongata Extract mechanism of action
 
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Illustrative pictures (VISIA®), Himanthalia Elongata Extract at 3%
Volunteer 07 - 29 years old

 
[1] Yoon JE et al. Senescent fibroblasts drive ageing pigmentation: A potential therapeutic target for senile lentigo. Theranostics. 2018 Sep 9;8(17):4620-4632

Flower-Powered Conditioning: A Sustainable New Cationic Surfactant
                                      

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 Lucie Maisonneuve

Stepan Company, France​​
Lucie is currently a Consumer Products Business Development Manager with Stepan Company, Europe. Prior to joining Stepan, she held various positions, including new product development and marketing.



Abstract

Hair conditioners are used around the world to improve the feel, appearance and manageability of hair. While the performance of these products is a must for consumers, a majority of them define themselves as eco-conscious beauty buyers and are looking for more sustainable products.
The most common cationic hair conditioning agents currently used are behentrimonium chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CETAC). As the industry standard for conditioning performance, BTAC is considered the preferred quaternary for combing and achieving a soft feel. However, both BTAC and CETAC have use-level restrictions in Europe due to their irritation potentials. In addition, these products are very toxic to aquatic life with chronic effects.
With decades of experience in esterquat chemistry, Stepan Company still believes in the value of esterquats for hair conditioning. Stepan’s personal care chemists started the development of a “next generation” esterquat that could provide the positive environmental and safety profiles of this chemistry, along with the combing and conditioning performance of BTAC.
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Stepan decided to go greener by using sunflower oil instead of a palm-derived fatty acid and has developed a novel hair conditioning quat in accordance with consumers’ main expectations in mind. The resulting product, a sunflower esterquat (INCI: Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides) does not contain any water, solvent nor preservative, and is comprised of 100% total cationic and emollient actives. This fits the rising need for concentrated ingredients that enable transportation and storage optimization. Thanks to its liquid form, the product is not only easy to handle, but also decreases the need for heating while formulating hair conditioners or masks. It also allows galenic form ranging from solutions to oils, emulsions and solids. While BTAC-based formulations need to be heated to approximately 80°C, formulating with SF-EQ[1] can be done at 65°C, hence contributing to energy savings. What is more, this sunflower oil-based esterquat is considered to be Derived Natural by ISO 16128 [Standard]. The Natural Origin Index for the product is 0.88, offering a better story for the consumer, the formulator and the environment.
While this esterquat was designed to meet as many sustainability criteria as possible, another crucial aspect to assess was technical performance. The detangling properties of this esterquat was assessed using a Dia-Stron instrument that measures the force needed to pull a comb through a standardized tress of wet hair. The greater the force, the poorer the conditioning performance. To simulate damaged hair, the tress tested was bleached Caucasian hair. When a 2% active conditioning agent is added to the base, the force needed to comb through hair is significantly reduced by all the cationic conditioning agents, showing easier detangling. However, CETAC and palm-based esterquats are not premium performers. Only the esterquat based on sunflower oil was able to equal the performance of the leading chemistry, BTAC.
 
Stepan also studied the deposition of SF-EQ onto the hair fiber and assessed its substantive character. To do so, a modified Rubine test using the anionic Red 80 dye was performed. This anionic dye serves to reveal the presence of a cationic onto keratin, the main component of hair. Tresses of bleached Caucasian hair were washed with a non-conditioning shampoo and rinsed thoroughly. A 2% active cationic conditioner was applied, and the hair was rinsed once more. The tresses were then dipped into a Red 80 dye solution, drained to removed excess solution, rinsed and left to dry overnight. The final observation of the dry hair tresses showed that the control one that was only shampooed, showed no trace of dye. The BTAC-treated hair showed some pinkish areas, resulting in a heterogeneous, low presence of BTAC. On the contrary, the SF-EQ-treated tress was uniformly left bright red, proving its superior substantivity towards the hair and suggested that the effect of this esterquat could last longer than the time spent under the shower.
However, substantivity can be a disadvantage when the conditioning agent keeps accumulating on the hair surface, which eventually leads to a greasy and heavy appearance of the hair. That is why a second shampoo was performed on the SF-EQ-treated hair tress. After rinsing and drying, the hair tress was back to its initial state. This indicates that the esterquat was completely eliminated after the next shampoo and rinse. SF-EQ consequently would not have a build-up effect.
 
Another challenge traditionally faced by formulators when substituting a key ingredient in their formulation is to be able to maintain the same physico-chemical properties. In the case of hair conditioning products, viscosity is a very important parameter. SF-EQ is able to build viscosity with lower levels of fatty alcohols and thickens more gradually than BTAC when more fatty alcohol is added. This gradual increase can be useful as it provides better control during the industrial production process. Even though SF-EQ does not reach the same high viscosities as BTAC, the values obtained are within the benchmark range, enabling formulators to create a range of hair care products comparable to BTAC.
This Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides product is a European-sourced, GMO-free sunflower oil and does not contain any additives. Its performance is similar to BTAC. By smoothing each individual hair strand, hair will be super-soft and manageable. It allows for easy combing and possesses great substantivity and good rinsability.​ It also promotes inclusive beauty as it offers superior curl control.
 
Lastly, this hair conditioning quat has a better environmental profile than the most popular quats (BTAC and CETAC) thanks to its ready biodegradability and sunflower oil feedstock. It is an eco-designed alternative to most common cationic conditioning agents.
 


[1] Sunflower Esterquat

         Interview with South African Brand Owner                           

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Dr Theo
Mothoa-Frendo

Uso Skincare,  South Africa
Dr Theo Mothoa-Frendo is the Founder and CEO of African Dermal Science (PTY)Ltd the owner of Uso Skincare, an advanced facial skincare range aimed at addressing the specific skincare needs of Africans.

A Medical Doctor by training, GIBS MBA Graduate and Pharmaceutical Expert, Dr Theo spent 10 years with Roche Pharmaceuticals across Sub-Saharan Africa mostly as Medical Director. Through her company she focuses on the research, development, manufacturing and marketing of science-driven skincare solutions for Africans.

Dr Theo is also a Fellow of the prestigious Archbishop Tutu African Leadership Fellowship and was named as one of the 50 African Entrepreneurs to watch by Entrepreneur Magazine.
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Other interests include the industry wide development of the Wellness industry which she does as a Board member of the Spa and Wellness association of Africa as well as promoting menstrual health and distribution of mentrual cups through her role as a Board Member of the MINA Foundation. Dr Theo also loves sharing her story in order to inspire others through her Public speaking engagements. She is a TedX Jhb Speaker and has spoken at various organisational platforms including Telkom, Liberty, GIBS, ESKOM, United Nations Africa, Barloworld, Lionesses to list a few.
Overview 

Uso Skincare by African Dermal Science, a proudly South African anti-ageing skincare brand that has hit the local South African market. Specifically formulated for Africans and the African climate, the product name Uso takes its meaning from the Zulu word Ubuso, which means face, a celebration of who we are as Africans.
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The Founder, a female black South African Medical Doctor and Pharmaceutical Expert, Dr Theo Mothoa-Frendo, was inspired to start this company and develop this range based on her personal struggles with finding locally developed quality skincare that addresses her specific African needs. Through extensive local research they identified the following as being skincare concerns that are specific to Africans: uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, seasonal dryness, oily skin and difficulty finding a sunscreen that does not leave a grey or white residue on the skin.

Over 3 years, they worked with renowned local cosmetic scientists, medical doctors and African women to research and develop this world class, proudly South African skincare range. Only the finest Botanical ingredients and the most advanced, tested, active pharmaceutical ingredients the world over have been used for the range products.  As recognition for excellence in Formulation, Regulations, Safety and Marketing, this young brand was Runner up in 2 categories at the South African Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Review New Product competition, where it was recognised alongside legendary South  African Brands.
Suitable for all skin types, this cosmeceutical range that is Doctor Developed has been clinically tested and dermatologist approved. 

Just one year after launch, Uso by African Dermal Science was listed with selected Edgars Stores in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia making it the first African Doctor developed Skincare Brand to be available in a leading Skincare retailer in South Africa. Uso Skincare products are also available on their own e-commerce site www.uso.africa, Take-a-lot, Beauty on Tapp and several other online stores. 
African Dermal Science celebrates the Beauty of Science for African Science.
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