Session 4
9 September
Chairpersons: Beverley Gardner, Skyem, South Africa
Sapphirah Phala, Symrise, South Africa
08h20-08h30 Welcome
08h30–09h00 A New Formulation lever to get an Attractive Tan with only a Daily Exposure
Pauline Chanut, Seppic Research & Innovation, France
09h00–09h30 Evaluation of some Environmental Factors on Skin Aging : from Cellular Impact to Skin Enhancement
Cyrielle Rakotovao, Sederma, France
09h30–10h00 Selected High Performance Innovation for Beautiful Hair: Hair Loss Prevention and Anti-Greying,
Hydration & Sebum Reduction Featuring an organic plant extract, a vitamins complex, and a Sugar derivative
Olivier Garet, DSM Nutritional Products, France
10h00–10h30 TEA/COFFEE BREAK
Sapphirah Phala, Symrise, South Africa
08h20-08h30 Welcome
08h30–09h00 A New Formulation lever to get an Attractive Tan with only a Daily Exposure
Pauline Chanut, Seppic Research & Innovation, France
09h00–09h30 Evaluation of some Environmental Factors on Skin Aging : from Cellular Impact to Skin Enhancement
Cyrielle Rakotovao, Sederma, France
09h30–10h00 Selected High Performance Innovation for Beautiful Hair: Hair Loss Prevention and Anti-Greying,
Hydration & Sebum Reduction Featuring an organic plant extract, a vitamins complex, and a Sugar derivative
Olivier Garet, DSM Nutritional Products, France
10h00–10h30 TEA/COFFEE BREAK
A New Formulation lever to get an Attractive
Tan with only a Daily Exposure
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Pauline Chanut Seppic Research & Innovation, France
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Pauline is in charge of cosmetics active ingredients’ biological evaluation and valorization in the Life Science department, joined Seppic in 2018.
Both Biology Engineer and PhD, Pauline has more than 3 years' experience in the cosmetic industry. She is in charge of cosmetics active ingredients biological evaluation and valorization in the Research and Innovation department of Seppic since 2018. |
Abstract
Human skin pigmentation is a complex biological process at the origin of skin colouring and tanning. It is triggered by a signaling cascade leading to melanin synthesis by melanosomes in melanocytes, followed up by their transfer in surrounding keratinocytes. Consumers are looking for solutions to benefit from the benefits of sun and beautiful tanned skin safely, thus limiting exposure. In this perspective, the objective of this study was to investigate the effects of a new biosourced Esterified Lipoamino Acid (ELA) on skin tanning.
Starting with melanogenesis pathways, melanin production was evaluated on melanocytes culture treated with ELA 0.005% for either 3 days in B16-F1 cell line or for 8 days in human primary cells. Extracted melanin was then measured spectrophotometrically at 405 nm.
Melanosome transfer was investigated on a melanocyte/keratinocyte co-culture treated with 0.005% ELA during 48h. Cells were then fixed, permeabilized and labelled with anti-PMEL17 and anti-cytokeratin primary antibodies for evaluating the amount of keratinocytes with integrated melanosomes by flow cytometry. In parallel, cells were co-cultivated on coverglasses, treated and labelled as previously described. The amount of transferred melanosomes was then assessed by microscopic image analyses.
Gene expression was also explored in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis (phototype III-IV) by applying topically a formula containing 1% ELA or placebo during 30h (analysis using TaqMan array after RNAs extraction).
In a second step, clinical efficacy on tanning was assessed on 20 caucasian women with a phototype III. Formulas with 1% ELA or 1% acetyl tyrosine as melanin booster reference were applied twice a day during 11 days. The volunteers were exposed to their minimum pigmentation dose of UVA radiations to mimic a normal incidental daily sun exposure (with untreated area as a control). Skin color was measured by colorimetry and ITA° calculation (Individual Typology Angle) and photos were taken before each UV radiation and one day after the last exposure. Assessments were also done two weeks after the last application and UV radiation.
ELA demonstrated to boost melanin synthesis in both melanocytes models. This result was explained by the overexpression of mapk1, usf1, mitf genes regulating melanogenic enzymes production and aim1, ap1m1, pmel17 and stx6 genes regulating melanogenic enzymes transport, which were studied in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis.
ELA was also able to stimulate melanosome transfer and the amount of melanosomes transferred from melanocyte to keratinocytes, thanks to the stimulation of related genes such as rac1, f2rl1, ktn1 and myo5 in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis.
Finally, the clinical evaluation revealed that ELA was able to decrease ITA° and thus significantly boost the tan up in comparison to untreated area and acetyl tyrosine from day 4 to day 11. It also extended the tan up to 15 days after the last application and UV exposure.
The new esterified lipoaminoacid demonstrated to boost and prolong skin tanning with limited daily exposure conditions. This boosting efficacy is explained by its actions along the melanogenesis pathways: capacity to stimulate melanin synthesis, melanosome transfer and to increase the amount of transferred melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
Human skin pigmentation is a complex biological process at the origin of skin colouring and tanning. It is triggered by a signaling cascade leading to melanin synthesis by melanosomes in melanocytes, followed up by their transfer in surrounding keratinocytes. Consumers are looking for solutions to benefit from the benefits of sun and beautiful tanned skin safely, thus limiting exposure. In this perspective, the objective of this study was to investigate the effects of a new biosourced Esterified Lipoamino Acid (ELA) on skin tanning.
Starting with melanogenesis pathways, melanin production was evaluated on melanocytes culture treated with ELA 0.005% for either 3 days in B16-F1 cell line or for 8 days in human primary cells. Extracted melanin was then measured spectrophotometrically at 405 nm.
Melanosome transfer was investigated on a melanocyte/keratinocyte co-culture treated with 0.005% ELA during 48h. Cells were then fixed, permeabilized and labelled with anti-PMEL17 and anti-cytokeratin primary antibodies for evaluating the amount of keratinocytes with integrated melanosomes by flow cytometry. In parallel, cells were co-cultivated on coverglasses, treated and labelled as previously described. The amount of transferred melanosomes was then assessed by microscopic image analyses.
Gene expression was also explored in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis (phototype III-IV) by applying topically a formula containing 1% ELA or placebo during 30h (analysis using TaqMan array after RNAs extraction).
In a second step, clinical efficacy on tanning was assessed on 20 caucasian women with a phototype III. Formulas with 1% ELA or 1% acetyl tyrosine as melanin booster reference were applied twice a day during 11 days. The volunteers were exposed to their minimum pigmentation dose of UVA radiations to mimic a normal incidental daily sun exposure (with untreated area as a control). Skin color was measured by colorimetry and ITA° calculation (Individual Typology Angle) and photos were taken before each UV radiation and one day after the last exposure. Assessments were also done two weeks after the last application and UV radiation.
ELA demonstrated to boost melanin synthesis in both melanocytes models. This result was explained by the overexpression of mapk1, usf1, mitf genes regulating melanogenic enzymes production and aim1, ap1m1, pmel17 and stx6 genes regulating melanogenic enzymes transport, which were studied in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis.
ELA was also able to stimulate melanosome transfer and the amount of melanosomes transferred from melanocyte to keratinocytes, thanks to the stimulation of related genes such as rac1, f2rl1, ktn1 and myo5 in human pigmented reconstructed epidermis.
Finally, the clinical evaluation revealed that ELA was able to decrease ITA° and thus significantly boost the tan up in comparison to untreated area and acetyl tyrosine from day 4 to day 11. It also extended the tan up to 15 days after the last application and UV exposure.
The new esterified lipoaminoacid demonstrated to boost and prolong skin tanning with limited daily exposure conditions. This boosting efficacy is explained by its actions along the melanogenesis pathways: capacity to stimulate melanin synthesis, melanosome transfer and to increase the amount of transferred melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes.
Evaluation of some Environmental Factors on Skin Aging : from Cellular Impact to Skin Enhancement
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Cyrielle Rakotovao Sederma, France
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After graduating from a chemical engineering school in a dual degree the Institute of Industrial Pharmacy in Lyon as a chemist, Cyrielle specialized in R&D projects in the health and cosmetics sector through her R&D experience at Henkel GmbH and the Faculty of Pharmacy of Montréal before turning to sales.
Now, she uses her technical knowledge to develop new business in Eastern Europe, Middle-East and Africa for Sederma. |
Abstract
The term “Exposome” describes the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death (Jean Krutmann & al.,2017). He proposed a definition of skin aging exposome focusing on environmental factor that are known to be linked with skin aging: UV, IR and visible light, tobacco, nutrition, stress lack of sleep and pollution. Focusing on air pollution, Vierkötter & al. regrouped in several studies impacts observed on Caucasian women from Germany that were correlated in China. At cellular level, some mechanisms have recently been proposed involving the Ahr (arylhydrocarbon receptor) in keratinocytes culture.
Mitochondria are the energy provider of the cells which underline their crucial role in cell survivance. Mitochondria can be observed under two different aspects, a filament network and a round isolated form that coexist. The reduction of the mitochondrial dynamism allowing the passage from a form to the other one is an important factor of aging. It increases oxidative stress that amplify mitochondrial damages, reduce the fusion because it favours the formation of inactive forms and finally lead to a 5 to 8% reduction in energy production per decade (GAZIEV et al.,2014; FIGGE et al., 2013, LANZA and NAIR, 2010; SAUNDERS et al., 2013).
In 2015, using Mito Tracker coloration, we demonstrated that UVB irradiation of human fibroblasts induced a modification of the mitochondrial repartition in favor of the isolated one.
We also confirmed that UVA irradiation was increasing free radical level using DPPH method, oxidation by lipoperoxidation method, singlet oxygen and finally ROS using DCHF probe.
Nowadays, we evaluated the impact of chemical pollution using Benzo[a]Pyrene (B[a]P as a model of the fossil fuel pollution. We confirmed that when applied on human keratinocytes culture it causes DNA breaks, IL-8 and IL-1a induction.
Regarding the impact of B[a]P on mitochondria, we observed a reduction of ATP production on human keratinocytes culture but also a modification of the shape of the mitochondria in human fibroblast culture in favor of an isolated round shape. Using a specific informatic tool we were able to quantify this phenomenon.
Finally, in vitro evaluation and in vivo application of plant cell culture extracts allowed us to counteract these negative impacts and enhanced skin aspect.
Selected High Performance Innovation for Beautiful Hair: Hair Loss Prevention and Anti-Greying,
Hydration & Sebum Reduction Featuring an
organic plant extract, a vitamins complex,
and a Sugar derivative
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Olivier GaretDSM Nutritional Products, France
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Olivier is currently EMEA Business Development & Marketing lead for DSM Personal Care, with a specialization in Skin care bioactives.
For more than 18 years, he has crossed the Personal Care industry at diverse positions from Commercial & Technical Development, to Sales & Marketing Strategy, in EMEA and Asia. Olivier has built his strong background of valuable proposals thanks to a wide and international base of experiences with customer associated with an intimate enthusiasm for Personal care and Market insights.. ‘Capturing Trends evolutions and translate them into forward looking solutions that consumers will love across DSM Personal Care segments (UV filters, Skin care bioactives, Vitamins, Technical & Performance ingredients) featuring Sustainability as one of the key drivers is an exciting journey and an everyday focus! |
Abstract
Hair aging is characterized by greying, loss and thinning of hair. It is considered as an aesthetic problem and might cause major psychological distress in affected individuals. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is looking for mild and natural treatment options.
We investigated an organic extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum, var. Helvetia, particularly rich in leontopodic acid), for its ability to work against hair aging. Our data on human hair follicles ex vivo show that the extract is able to significantly prolong the hair growth phase anagen and to increase keratinocyte proliferation in the hair matrix, both associated with hair growth mechanisms. In addition, there was a donor-dependent increase in the hair follicle’s melanin content, suggesting positive effect on hair pigmentation.
In placebo controlled clinical studies on about Hair loss prevention and anti-hair greying, we found a significant increase in hair density (Trichoscan) over time and against placebo formulation. Trichoscan analysis showed also a significant increase of pigmented hairs for the Edelweiss extract over time, and against the placebo group. We therefore provide evidence that an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss has a solid hair anti-aging effect ex vivo and in vivo.
Another investigation on hair aging was made on a multi-vitamins complex (Vit. E, Vit. C, Vit. B3, Vit. B5, Vit. B6 - tocopheryl acetate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide, calcium panthotenate, pyridoxine hydrochloride). The new set of data show that the multi-vitamins complex is able to prevent hair loss and promote anti-hair greying on human hair follicles ex vivo and as well in in-vivo studies.
Consumers start to understand that the scalp should be nurtured in a similar way to facial skin and will be interested in ingredient innovation that crosses from facial care to the scalp. Itchy scalp appears to be the #1 symptom for scalp problems (65%). The claim that sufferers from scalp issues find most interesting is “moisturizes scalp and hair” (44%), followed with some distance by “soothes the scalp, reduces itchiness” (41%). In that way, new studies were performed on Hair with a 100% natural origin sugar derivative (saccharide isomerate) known for its great long lasting and deep hydration properties (in leave on) and its ability to restore hydration in rinse off. This bioactive is able to moisture dry scalp. 24 hour after one single application and even after 28 days of frequent showering, shampoos with 0.2% and 0.5% of saccharide isomerate reinforce the scalp barrier. This sugar derivative is also able to reduce scalp flaking , up to 55% reduction after frequent showering with shampoos, and offers a 40% sebum reduction after frequent showering with a shampoo. The improvements over the placebo are highly statistically significant. Saccharide isomerate is then a bioactive of choice for scalp treatment targeting moisture and reduction of flaking & sebum.
Our selected high performing innovations featuring an organic plant extract, a vitamins complex, and a Sugar derivative, enable Hair loss prevention & anti-hair greying, hydration & sebum reduction for beautiful hair.
To go beyond, DSM has performed for hair care new studies on 20+1 other technologies, substantiated by extensive literature research and in house instrumental tests, that are available for further sharing to inspire products that consumers are looking for and will love.
Hair aging is characterized by greying, loss and thinning of hair. It is considered as an aesthetic problem and might cause major psychological distress in affected individuals. Therefore, the cosmetic industry is looking for mild and natural treatment options.
We investigated an organic extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum, var. Helvetia, particularly rich in leontopodic acid), for its ability to work against hair aging. Our data on human hair follicles ex vivo show that the extract is able to significantly prolong the hair growth phase anagen and to increase keratinocyte proliferation in the hair matrix, both associated with hair growth mechanisms. In addition, there was a donor-dependent increase in the hair follicle’s melanin content, suggesting positive effect on hair pigmentation.
In placebo controlled clinical studies on about Hair loss prevention and anti-hair greying, we found a significant increase in hair density (Trichoscan) over time and against placebo formulation. Trichoscan analysis showed also a significant increase of pigmented hairs for the Edelweiss extract over time, and against the placebo group. We therefore provide evidence that an extract of the alpine plant Edelweiss has a solid hair anti-aging effect ex vivo and in vivo.
Another investigation on hair aging was made on a multi-vitamins complex (Vit. E, Vit. C, Vit. B3, Vit. B5, Vit. B6 - tocopheryl acetate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, niacinamide, calcium panthotenate, pyridoxine hydrochloride). The new set of data show that the multi-vitamins complex is able to prevent hair loss and promote anti-hair greying on human hair follicles ex vivo and as well in in-vivo studies.
Consumers start to understand that the scalp should be nurtured in a similar way to facial skin and will be interested in ingredient innovation that crosses from facial care to the scalp. Itchy scalp appears to be the #1 symptom for scalp problems (65%). The claim that sufferers from scalp issues find most interesting is “moisturizes scalp and hair” (44%), followed with some distance by “soothes the scalp, reduces itchiness” (41%). In that way, new studies were performed on Hair with a 100% natural origin sugar derivative (saccharide isomerate) known for its great long lasting and deep hydration properties (in leave on) and its ability to restore hydration in rinse off. This bioactive is able to moisture dry scalp. 24 hour after one single application and even after 28 days of frequent showering, shampoos with 0.2% and 0.5% of saccharide isomerate reinforce the scalp barrier. This sugar derivative is also able to reduce scalp flaking , up to 55% reduction after frequent showering with shampoos, and offers a 40% sebum reduction after frequent showering with a shampoo. The improvements over the placebo are highly statistically significant. Saccharide isomerate is then a bioactive of choice for scalp treatment targeting moisture and reduction of flaking & sebum.
Our selected high performing innovations featuring an organic plant extract, a vitamins complex, and a Sugar derivative, enable Hair loss prevention & anti-hair greying, hydration & sebum reduction for beautiful hair.
To go beyond, DSM has performed for hair care new studies on 20+1 other technologies, substantiated by extensive literature research and in house instrumental tests, that are available for further sharing to inspire products that consumers are looking for and will love.
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