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Poster Session
Poster Section available for the duration of the conference, presenters will be available for questions during every break.
UVA1 Exposure Leads to Darken Human Skins of Different Constitutive Pigmentation together with a Molecular Biological Impact
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
A Comparison of Theoretical Sun Protection Factor results from Two online Sun Protection Factor Calculators with In Vivo and In Vitro results from a South African Sun Protection Factor Testing Laboratory
Marlize Goosen, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa
Characterization of Skin and Hair Typology in Women and Men with Phototype IV + Living in South Africa
Tebogo Moehi, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
UVA1 Exposure Leads to Darken Human Skins of Different Constitutive Pigmentation together with a Molecular Biological Impact
Lumbidzani Moyo, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
A Comparison of Theoretical Sun Protection Factor results from Two online Sun Protection Factor Calculators with In Vivo and In Vitro results from a South African Sun Protection Factor Testing Laboratory
Marlize Goosen, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa
Characterization of Skin and Hair Typology in Women and Men with Phototype IV + Living in South Africa
Tebogo Moehi, L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
UVA1 Exposure Leads to Darken Human Skins of Different Constitutive Pigmentation together with a Molecular Biological Impact
Lumbidzani Moyo
L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
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Lumbi is an accomplished chemical technologist and innovator with expertise in polymer science and cosmetic product development. Her work spans from nanomaterials and cosmetic research at the CSIR, where she developed multiple technologies, to leading industry advancements in haircare at Croda and achieving significant business development success at Novozymes. With numerous publications and awards, Dr. Moyo continues to drive innovation in bio/chemical technologies and their commercialization.
ABSTRACT Introduction Human skin is daily exposed to solar UV rays. Among the range of UV that reaches the Earth ground, longwave UVA (UVA1, 340-400nm) can represent up to 80% of total UV and show high penetration properties, reaching deep dermis. An increasing body of evidence indicates that longwave UVA1 can have a significant contribution in long-term clinical consequences of solar UVR (Marionnet et al, 2014). Aim This work aimed at studying in vivo the clinical pigment darkening response as well as the biological response following UVA1 exposure of volunteers exhibiting various constitutive pigmentations. |
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Methods
Caucasian (skin types III/IV), Indian (skin types IV/V) and African (skin type VI) skins were exposed to a series of UVA1 doses (Oriel solar simulator equipped with WG360 Filter). Skin color pre- and post-exposure was measured visually by the same investigator and using a Chromameter (Minolta CR400) using L*a*b*color system (CIE lab 1976). L*expresses skin reflectance and b* component balancing between yellow (positive values) and blue (negative values). Punch biopsies were also performed at UVA1 exposed and non-exposed sites and gene expression profiles were carried out, using quantitative PCR.
Results
In Caucasian skin in vivo, UVA1 exposure induced immediate and long-term pigmentation. In Indian and African skins in vivo, dose response and time course experiments showed that UVA1 exposure induced immediate and long-term pigmentation, in a dose dependent manner. The low dose of 30 J/cm2 UVA1 was sufficient to induce skin pigmentation in Indian and African skins. In Caucasian, Indian and African skins in vivo, UVA1 exposure induced the modulation of expression of genes related to diverse functional families, such as inflammation, oxidative stress and cancer.
Conclusions
Our result contributes to data on the pigment darkening response to UVA1 exposure in a variety of skin types. In association with our previous findings, this data promotes the use of sunscreen by all skin types for the benefit of even pigmentation and prevention of a range of UVR-induced detrimental consequences e.g., cancer.
Caucasian (skin types III/IV), Indian (skin types IV/V) and African (skin type VI) skins were exposed to a series of UVA1 doses (Oriel solar simulator equipped with WG360 Filter). Skin color pre- and post-exposure was measured visually by the same investigator and using a Chromameter (Minolta CR400) using L*a*b*color system (CIE lab 1976). L*expresses skin reflectance and b* component balancing between yellow (positive values) and blue (negative values). Punch biopsies were also performed at UVA1 exposed and non-exposed sites and gene expression profiles were carried out, using quantitative PCR.
Results
In Caucasian skin in vivo, UVA1 exposure induced immediate and long-term pigmentation. In Indian and African skins in vivo, dose response and time course experiments showed that UVA1 exposure induced immediate and long-term pigmentation, in a dose dependent manner. The low dose of 30 J/cm2 UVA1 was sufficient to induce skin pigmentation in Indian and African skins. In Caucasian, Indian and African skins in vivo, UVA1 exposure induced the modulation of expression of genes related to diverse functional families, such as inflammation, oxidative stress and cancer.
Conclusions
Our result contributes to data on the pigment darkening response to UVA1 exposure in a variety of skin types. In association with our previous findings, this data promotes the use of sunscreen by all skin types for the benefit of even pigmentation and prevention of a range of UVR-induced detrimental consequences e.g., cancer.
A Comparison of Theoretical Sun Protection Factor results from Two online Sun Protection Factor Calculators with In Vivo and In Vitro results from a South African Sun Protection Factor Testing Laboratory
Marlize Goosen
Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University, South Africa
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Marlize is the Chief Technical Officer in the Photobiology Laboratory at Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University since 2002. She has obtained a Diploma in Cosmetic Sciences from Coschem in 2005. She has extensive experience in Sunscreen Efficacy Testing and has served on working groups for the International Standards Organisation and the SA Bureau of Standards.
She has published many peer-reviewed papers and made many presentations at national and international congresses. She has recently successfully completed the Safety Assessors Training course that is being presented by DGK (German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics). Her most amendable achievement is being a grandmother to two beautiful girls and one very busy boy. ABSTRACT Background Cosmetic manufacturers invest large financial resources during the formulation of primary and secondary sunscreens. Sunscreen claims must be substantiated through in vivo and in vitro tests conducted by an independent testing facility. The process is considered expensive and time consuming. At least two online SPF calculators are available to predict the SPF of formulations to assist formulators, but there is limited information as to whether the results generated from these calculators correlate well with the final tested SPF values. The online SPF calculators predict the SPF and detailed UVA metrics. The prediction is based on the formulation details entered into the calculator. |
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The calculators potentially aid manufacturers to determine the SPF of products cost effectively and rapidly but there is little published evidence on the correlation of the results generated by the calculators with in vitro and in vivo SPF test results.
Aims
To evaluate the comparability of two online SPF calculators with in vivo and in vitro results for sunscreen products tested by a South African laboratory over two years.
Method
This study used a correlative, quantitative design with retrospective data collected from The Photobiology Laboratory in South Africa. The study was the basis of an undergraduate project. The following information was used: the product’s identification number, type, ingredients and concentrations, in vivo and in vitro results (SPF rating, critical wavelength, UVA-PF and SPF ratio). The product details were entered into the two online SPF calculators to generate results which were then compared with the laboratory results.
Data Analysis
Descriptive and inferential analysis methods were used. The data were analysed using scatter plot graphs generated using the Microsoft Excel spreadsheet from the captured data. The regression or correlation analysis of the graphs was used for the analysis of the results. Multiple linear regression was used to estimate the relationship between the two independent variables (online calculators) and one dependent variable (Laboratory results) to see how strong the relationship is.Descriptive statistics were presented as means and standard deviations. Inferential statistics were the Student’s paired t-test (for magnitude and significance of the difference between online SPF simulating calculators and lab results).
Results
A total of 85 products were identified with complete sets of data. The raw data was captured into each of the SPF calculators (calculator X and calculator Y), to generate electronic predictions of a given product SPF and SPF rating, UVA-PF (in vitro) and SPF ratio at a certain critical wavelength, based on the product active ingredients and concentrations.
Calculator X only allowed certain concentration ranges of active ingredient. Eight products contained ingredients higher than the permitted concentrations. This decreased the raw data collected to 77 products.
ConclusionThe study showed a positive correlation between the online calculators (X and Y) for the in-vivo and in-vitro parameters. The in vivo SPF results from the Photobiology laboratory correlated well with the in vivo SPF results from calculators X, where calculator Y showed no correlation and the critical wavelength of both calculator X and Y showed better correlation amongst the parameters.
For clients of our test laboratory, online SPF calculator X is the calculator of choice for manufacturing companies developing new sunscreen products. It can be used to provide simulated results regarding the products SPF and other parameters before proceeding to the in vivo tests.
Aims
To evaluate the comparability of two online SPF calculators with in vivo and in vitro results for sunscreen products tested by a South African laboratory over two years.
Method
This study used a correlative, quantitative design with retrospective data collected from The Photobiology Laboratory in South Africa. The study was the basis of an undergraduate project. The following information was used: the product’s identification number, type, ingredients and concentrations, in vivo and in vitro results (SPF rating, critical wavelength, UVA-PF and SPF ratio). The product details were entered into the two online SPF calculators to generate results which were then compared with the laboratory results.
Data Analysis
Descriptive and inferential analysis methods were used. The data were analysed using scatter plot graphs generated using the Microsoft Excel spreadsheet from the captured data. The regression or correlation analysis of the graphs was used for the analysis of the results. Multiple linear regression was used to estimate the relationship between the two independent variables (online calculators) and one dependent variable (Laboratory results) to see how strong the relationship is.Descriptive statistics were presented as means and standard deviations. Inferential statistics were the Student’s paired t-test (for magnitude and significance of the difference between online SPF simulating calculators and lab results).
Results
A total of 85 products were identified with complete sets of data. The raw data was captured into each of the SPF calculators (calculator X and calculator Y), to generate electronic predictions of a given product SPF and SPF rating, UVA-PF (in vitro) and SPF ratio at a certain critical wavelength, based on the product active ingredients and concentrations.
Calculator X only allowed certain concentration ranges of active ingredient. Eight products contained ingredients higher than the permitted concentrations. This decreased the raw data collected to 77 products.
ConclusionThe study showed a positive correlation between the online calculators (X and Y) for the in-vivo and in-vitro parameters. The in vivo SPF results from the Photobiology laboratory correlated well with the in vivo SPF results from calculators X, where calculator Y showed no correlation and the critical wavelength of both calculator X and Y showed better correlation amongst the parameters.
For clients of our test laboratory, online SPF calculator X is the calculator of choice for manufacturing companies developing new sunscreen products. It can be used to provide simulated results regarding the products SPF and other parameters before proceeding to the in vivo tests.
Characterization of Skin and Hair Typology in Women and Men with Phototype IV + Living in South Africa
Tebogo Moehi
L’Oréal Research & Innovation, South Africa
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Tebogo is part of the L’Oréal SA R&I Clinical and Physics Science team. He holds a BSc Chemical Engineering Honours degree from WITS University. His primary scientific interests are hair and skin research on Melanin rich Africans, understanding how both the skin and hair react from utilisation of different products.
ABSTRACT Introduction For a better understanding of our consumers around the world, it is important to quantify the main ‘cosmetic disorders’ that affect them and the peculiarities of their skin and hair in their local living environment. Aim To quantify the main ‘cosmetic disorders’ that affect our South Africa consumers Methods: 371 women and 342 men (comprising native speakers of Zulu, Xhosa, Sotho and other languages), aged 18 to 70 years were assessed. Self-assessment of the subjects was carried out by interview to assess the volunteer’s own perception of the condition of their skin and hair i.e. consumer habits, hair care and skin conditions. Expert assessments by a dermatologist, beautician and hairdresser were also performed. The latter included the use of a chromasphere (skin colour assessment), corneometer (hair and skin dryness) and sebumeter (oiliness). Pictures of the volunteers were also taken. A local South African team, independent of L’Oréal, carried out this study. |
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Results
Regarding their facial skin, South African women complained about lack of brightness (78% of cohort) and lack of firmness of the skin (70% of cohort). For the first time in our studies, we observe a uniform oily skin on the face (no T zone): forehead and cheek have equivalent sebum rates. Another feature is the lack of significant decrease in sebum rates after menopause. The dermatologist observed that 99% of the women have pigmentary disorders (brown spots, spread macules, naevi, melasma) with a clear age effect. Contributing to facial hyperpigmentation is inflammatory and retentional acne in women and in men, pseudofolliculitis of the beard is highly common (60%) which presents with high prevalence of acne levels as well. Dryness is a major concern for legs, palms and heels, with strong decreasing age effect.
In regard to hair habits, limited access to water and recurring hairstyles that strain the hair fibre are part of the elements that may explain the sensitive scalp seen in the population; sensitive scalp is mainly evident through itching complaints. Also, the prevalence of hair straightening products (relaxers) is high age 18 - 49 (≥ 50%). Insufficient rinsing of hair straightening products may thus contribute to the increased fragility of the hair as seen by the expert hairdressers, despite a notable self-perceived underestimation of their hair fragility by the volunteers. Interestingly, there was no correlation between relaxer/braiding and traction alopecia, which affect 60% of the women.
Conclusions
Concerns about body skin dryness is prevalent in the African population. In terms of ideal skin, the study population would like a brighter firmer skin with even skin tone (i.e., no hyperpigmentation) without losing natural colour. For women, the most common hair practices (straightening and styling) most likely contribute to dryness, alopecia and fragility of the curly fibres reported in our cohort but not in an exclusive causative manner.
Regarding their facial skin, South African women complained about lack of brightness (78% of cohort) and lack of firmness of the skin (70% of cohort). For the first time in our studies, we observe a uniform oily skin on the face (no T zone): forehead and cheek have equivalent sebum rates. Another feature is the lack of significant decrease in sebum rates after menopause. The dermatologist observed that 99% of the women have pigmentary disorders (brown spots, spread macules, naevi, melasma) with a clear age effect. Contributing to facial hyperpigmentation is inflammatory and retentional acne in women and in men, pseudofolliculitis of the beard is highly common (60%) which presents with high prevalence of acne levels as well. Dryness is a major concern for legs, palms and heels, with strong decreasing age effect.
In regard to hair habits, limited access to water and recurring hairstyles that strain the hair fibre are part of the elements that may explain the sensitive scalp seen in the population; sensitive scalp is mainly evident through itching complaints. Also, the prevalence of hair straightening products (relaxers) is high age 18 - 49 (≥ 50%). Insufficient rinsing of hair straightening products may thus contribute to the increased fragility of the hair as seen by the expert hairdressers, despite a notable self-perceived underestimation of their hair fragility by the volunteers. Interestingly, there was no correlation between relaxer/braiding and traction alopecia, which affect 60% of the women.
Conclusions
Concerns about body skin dryness is prevalent in the African population. In terms of ideal skin, the study population would like a brighter firmer skin with even skin tone (i.e., no hyperpigmentation) without losing natural colour. For women, the most common hair practices (straightening and styling) most likely contribute to dryness, alopecia and fragility of the curly fibres reported in our cohort but not in an exclusive causative manner.
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Coschem is POPI Complaint
Bridget MacDonald is the appointed Information Officer, [email protected]
Bridget MacDonald is the appointed Information Officer, [email protected]
